Culture

I am nearing the end of 1st semester as a teacher in the UAE, Dubai, for the all girls school. It has been quite a ride. Apart from the fact that none of the teachers and students liked the rushed schedule with 40 minute classes, I have had to teach 4 different classes or in the teaching world have 4 different preps. I am in the process of writing the semester exams for the classes and I can't help but share about some of the things that I've learned this 1st Semester.

-When in Rome, do as the Romans do. I have learned more and more, that if you don't embrace and accept the local culture you are to some extent doomed. Its not that I do not like the culture here, don't get me wrong, it is just that it takes a lot longer than I imagined to learn the local ways. I am sure I will continue to learn my lessons by either saying or doing the wrong thing but instead of fighting I am trying to go more and more with the flow.

-Your students know everything about you! When I returned from my winter break/Christmas & New Years, I was just glowing and in the best mood from my engagement. And it made my teaching better and I even shared the news with some of my "girls" or students. These girls love romance so they were beyond excited! However, this week I've been facing some challenges and have not been the most pleasant person around which has surely been affecting my work. It is hard to hide human emotions from humans! :) Ha!

-Last, I've learned a lot in my Sociology class about culture. My fiance and I always argue about globalization & culture. He thinks that being in Shanghai is no different than being in Paris. I always get a little irritated, and peeved. I believe that there are huge differences across the world which stem from cultural differences. Even within large urban areas, you have huge cultural differences. Just go from the East side of 288 highway to the West side (Houston) and you will surely see what I mean. Sure you can probably hit up a Starbucks in Shanghai and Paris and get the same latte. But culture goes beyond this. I have always tried to argue this point to Adnan but have never really had the proper tool kit. Well, thanks to my Sociology course, I've learned so much about these topics.

People within a culture decide what is culturally acceptable. So for example, if your culture thinks its okay to let your child hang their head out of the sunroof while driving 35 mph, than that is "culturally acceptable" in that area of the world (hint I saw this occur on the way home from school yesterday :) ). In America, we are very strict about safety, on the brink of obsessed with being safe, but not so much elsewhere which may be in part because the company will get sued if they are not careful and you do not CYA. Along with learning that it is the local people that eventually write the cultural rule books, cultural traits are eventually written into laws. So the laws in Shanghai and Paris are going to be different because the people and their cultural customs are different. In Paris, or France, I've heard that you are not guilty if you murder your husband who's been having an affair, it is a "crime de passion". That may be just an old wives tale but none the less, this is just an example okay folks. In China, the laws for what can be printed in the press are what Chinese people have accepted as culturally appropriate. So my point is that first comes our cultures/mores/norms/folkways. Next comes what the culture/people consider culturally appropriate and these traits are written into laws.

Phew, that was long. I feel like I'm writing a dissertation paper like my bff Madeline.

A few other things, the Danish cartoonist was on the local radio the other day and said that he has no regrets for drawing the controversial drawings that offended Muslims around the world. Maybe in his culture, the Danish, freedom of speech is one the highest forms that the Danes hold high above all. Not saying I agree with the fact that he printed them but it was something I realized while listening to him speak.

And one last cultural moment. Yesterday afternoon, I heard that France is trying to ban the niqab which is the veil from head to toe in black that some devout Muslims wear. (See the example in photo above.) I told this to one of my classes and they could not understand at all why they would ban it. I said, "well they want their citizens to be French". But you see, they don't quite understand that or what that means. It got them thinking however, and I just like to share what I hear. The struggles with the growing Muslim population in France and throughout Europe is a fascination of mine that I would like to continue studying and writing about so stay tuned for more:) And email me news articles related to this subject if you come across any!

Arriving in Istanbul

Hey everyone! I did not write a post on my trip to Berlin. Basically it was an amazing trip overall. Adnan met up with me in Berlin. We took in all of the sights: Brandenburg Tor, Checkpoint Charlie, the Bundstag, Potsdamer Platz, Schlosse Charlotenneburg and the fun Christmas markets.

Now, I am in Istanbul and Adnan will arrive in a few hours. My plane ride on Turkish Airways from Dubai to Istanbul was alright. Despite the delay (I could have slept in one more hour) I discovered that Turkish Airlines may be one of the last airlines that offers...no baggage fees (like in the US), a nice meal, a blanket, eye mask, movies and free alcohol (even though I don't drink it, this surprised me nonetheless). I slept most of the flight.

Next, as I arrived at the visa desk, my name was called over the ıntercom because Adnan had kindly ordered the hotel to pick me up. I rushed through the visa booth, passport check and baggage claim in a jiffy! A nice man directed me to the little mini van type vehicle. Inside the driver asked where I am from. I said, the U.S. and he replied by saying, "Obama!" I laughed. He also taught me how to say Yes, No and Good Morning! What a nice man and a great welcome to Istanbul, a major city in Turkey which as a country has a major reputation for its hospitality.

We pulled into the Old Town. Up a small brick lined street and down another brick lined street arriving at our little hotel. I freshened up and walked around. The sun is shining and despite being a bit chilly outside, taking in the sights is mezmerizing. I ate delicious kofte (kebabs), lentil soup, and proceeded to ask a woman where a good place to drink coffee is, her reply, Starbucks. Instead, I found a little local shop two doors down from my hotel which serves Illy and ordered a machiato. Before the coffee shop, while walking through a little square, I enjoyed a sallup (which my boss Pat told me to try). This warm drink is a thick white drink made from orchids with cinnamon sprinkled on top. I enjoyed it but can't wait to try the fresh squeezed pomegranite juice and nargile (hookah). That's all for today!

Musandam, Oman

Wow! It has been over a month since I have updated my blog. How sad:( Part of what I have been going through the past month is called "culture shock" to some, others "homesickness", and to many stress transitioning to life in the Middle East. They say it gets better with time. Some say, it takes a year, others two but all I know is that this past month has been one hell of a ride!

To get out of myself (and the classroom) I was chosen to be one of the chaperones for the four day trip to Musandam, Oman. There were 32 high school girls, three other teachers, and myself. Since most people do not even know where the country of Oman is, I have included a map. If you follow the UAE coastline northeast, there is a peninsula called the Musandam Peninsula. Let me tell you folks, it was breathtaking. I always dreamed of white sandy beaches, and green-blue water and there it was right in front of my eyes!

Day One:
We left our school in Dubai at 7 am. After packing a breakfast, lunch and all of the required gear on the packing list, we all got onto a really nice tour bus and headed out. As my co-worker Pat said to me, "all you have to do is get on the bus". I had been so stressed and overworked, I could hardly wait to get out of my routine and enjoy a little fun. We stopped at a beach right before the UAE/Oman border and ate lunch, thought that we'd wade our toes in the beautiful water. Well our cute little pedicured feet had tar stains all over them which we quickly learned (thanks to Julie) that only an oil based product such as sunscreen will remove. Moreover, the staff met us and we arrived at the accommodations. The staff consisted of four people: Ian (a Scot), Jane (the boss, a Brit), Gemma (a Brit) and Courtney (an American). The staff were so nice throughout the entire trip. They took us first to a museum which I enjoyed. Being an history teacher, I love all that nerdy information on the area and the founding people. The museum I speak of and the town is called Khasab. Nice little town. In the museum, I enjoyed learning about all of the native Omanis and how they live(d). I also learned, interestingly enough, that the mountains shooting up into the skyline are formed by the earth's plates which are essentially pushing the Musandam peninsula into Iran (which is across the Strait of Hormuz). My question was, is it "global warming" that is causing the sea level to rise or is it the plates below the earth surface that are maybe pushing the land forming mountains and sea levels to change? I guess I'll never be able to find that one out.

The most interesting thing of all was observing the Omani people. Khasab is a simple town with very few shops or commercialized things. Lots of little boys running around without shoes, playing soccer and I even saw one little boy beating up another little boy. So where are all of the woman you ask? Well, that was our question! I guess, in part, it is part of the local culture. Women tend to stay home and remain indoors. We did see a few after a while but it was mostly men (trying to stare through the tinted windows to see our beautiful girls). Khasab was not a dangerous place though. The hotel was very modest but got the job done. I saw a few Europeans and what looked like an American family from the midwest (they were so pale:)). It was fun to see a small town and observe the culture. I have been in Dubai which remains such an odd city that is trying so desperately to be modern and unfortunately the only place where I see locals is at the mall.

Day Two:
Every morning we awoke at 7am which believe it or not is sleeping in for us teachers. The staff hires the hotel to feed us and the buffet was quite nice! The first day we rode mountain bikes in the morning and kayaked in the afternoon. I loved every minute of it. I would really like to purchase a bike but we'll see. There are some great parks here where you can ride your bikes because unfortunately the people drive so crazy in Dubai that it is not a pedestrian/biker friendly city. So as you can imagine, after two days of activities, the girls and teachers were quite tired.

Day Three:
This was our second day of fun filled activities. In the morning, my group went on the navigation trip. The girls shared GPS systems and went on a scavenger hunt. We were actually walking around through a wadi (a dry valley that stores water when it rains). It was fun! The real challenge came in the afternoon during rock climbing. Quite honestly, I doubted that several of our little divas would even get on the mountain in a harness with a helmet let alone climb up the wall! I was so proud in the end seeing every single girl climb to the top! Now the climbs were not lacking any drama, whining, and tantrums but Ian who had us on the harness or coached us up the mountains was really spectacular and all of the girls climbing it in the end!

Day Four:
The last day in Oman (Friday) was incredible and probably most people's favorite. The crew took us all out on a dhow (traditional Arab sailing vessel). As we headed out around the bend, dolphins swam along our boat. It was so amazing. I had never seen dolphins and was like a kid again. Then we swam. The warm, refreshing water was stunning. I even strapped on a snorkeling mask and mouthpiece for the first time (as did many of the girls) and saw all of the fish below the surface. What a trip! It was so much fun!

All in all, it is amazing how many lessons you can learn outside of the classroom. I learned that even girls who pack two suitcases full of candy, who sleep on Dior pillows and wear expensive work-out clothes can climb walls, kayak and swim with the fish. It was not only relieving to get away from my routine but also fantastic to get to know some of the students I do not have in class, bond with my co-workers and see a fascinating new country that I cannot wait to visit again someday!

Middle East International Film Festival

Friday, I drove to Abu Dhabi for the MEIFF. This is the 2nd MEIFF held in Abu Dhabi and there is another film festival coming to Dubai in December. I am really looking forward to all of these films.

Planet Plastic - This documentary was categorized at the film festival under the category, "What in the World Are We Doing to Our World?" Planet Plastic could have easily been placed in the category "What in the HELL are we doing to our World?" The film maker, Werner Boote, is Austrian and grew up with a Grandfather who worked in the plastics industry in Europe. He started asking questions about the plastics industry out of curiosity but the main connection is his Grandfather and some old notes he had left behind about the growth of the industry. In the film, we see Werner Boote, traveling all over the world going to the Plastic Industry's largest trade show in Europe, to visit various researchers, visit contaminated sites. Mr. Boote had ten studies funded and revealed some of his findings in the film.

Plastics are horrible! The woman in the film I found the most profound in her findings is a woman who researches at Washington State University. She said that when plastic is heated, or corodes over time, chemicals are released. These chemicals affect our endocrine systems, reproductive health (men & women). Another man from Ohio, stated that these leaching chemicals make us obese, mess with our respiratory systems, etc. It was quite scary and made me want to go home and throw everything out made of plastic!

The two things that I have taken away from this moving are...

1. It does not matter how much of the chemicals that seep from the plastic that you are exposed to. It is simply a matter of being exposed and I've probably already been exposed thanks to my parents cloudy colored tupperware they used all throughout the eighties. I am already screwed. It is not the quantity I learned. If you have been exposed, you have been exposed.

2. The producers of plastic bottles or manufacturers do not know what chemicals are being used to make the plastic bottles. The suppliers send the "correct" ingrediants but actually do not give all of the information as to which chemicals are supplied to the producer and there is not one organized body (government, FDA, etc.) that is looking into this. No one really knows how harmful plastics are, is what i am trying to say.

The film maker conducted 10 studies that were funded by a body within the European Union. The woman in charge of funding the studies was interviewed and stated that there are 160 something chemicals used in everyday plastics and it took them ten years to study ten. That means there are still one hundred something chemicals out there to study. Who is going to do this? How much will it cost? You are probably thinking, "don't we have more important things to worry about right now?" This is, in my opinion the film makers point. No one cares about this Plastic problem we have and no one is really doing anything about it. We are continuing to allow the chemical/petroleum companies do what they please, produce what they please.

Overall, I thought that the film was VERY informative. I approached and met Mr. Boote afterwards (sorry I did not get a photo). There was a Q&A session at the end. The saddest thing he spoke of was baby bottles, pacifiers, how the plastics are not safe and the other was that if you purchase something that says BPA free, well, guess what? They tested it and its toxic.

Check out Mr. Boote's webiste: www.plastic-planet.at If you speak or read German you are in luck. The website is mostly in German right now but check it out regardless. German is just like English right? Mr. Boote is working on getting it translated.

In Berlin-This film was so-so. I went to see it because I REALLY want to visit Berlin. This film was in the "Documentary Feature Competition". It looked into the lives of various people throughout Berlin since the wall came down twenty years ago this November. I liked the film okay and this quick fix did not subside my desire to go there!

No One Knows About Persian Cats-I enjoyed the first film for being so informative, however this film was brilliant. The film follows two young Iranian indie rock musicians trying to get their band together to go to London. But the film also displayed various musicians and the underground music scene in Iran (mostly Tehran, the capital). Again, just like so many things that I have observed in the Middle East, this film further clarifies that kids in their twenties all over the globe love similar things, like Indie rock.

The film was directed by Bahman Ghobadi. It was classified in the film festival's category "Narrative Feature Competition". Based on real events and real people who are not allowed to play "Western" music or are continuously arrested, jailed and eventually the two characters who the film is based off of have had to resettle in London. It showed the beautiful and the ugly of Iran. The poverty and the hopelessness many face in the country where I am not allowed to visit but would love to.

I must say, having beloved Iranian friends, learning about Iran and seeing a film like this with such beautiful photography, I continue to learn about this country and culture. I find it quite beautiful and cannot blame some of the government's decisions or laws that I don't agree with on the entire country. That would be like people throughout the world disliking me because of Bush! (O, I forgot, some people do this ;-) he he)

Regardless, if this film gathers enough momentum and is played in the states, I highly recommend it. The end startles you and I won't say why but I truly enjoyed this film. After, I wanted to run out and buy some converse, put on some old tight jeans, pull on a hoody and go to an Indie rock concert which are unfortunately lacking in Dubai.

I hope this post was not too boring! Thanks for reading and keep me posted on the world of films! Ciao!

What's God got to do, got to do with it?

I am a Scorpio. Born right smack dab in the middle of the Scorpio time period Oct. 23-Nov. 20th, on Nov. 5th. There really isn't any denying the fact that I am a Scorpio but sometimes I just don't feel it. Scorpio's can be described as...complex, cleaver, passionate, investigative, magnetic, social, good memory, deep, sensual, self-reliant, determined, loyal, brave, protective, resourceful, dynamic, and intuitive.

I have been feeling a bit awkward lately because I am in quite a religious country, despite being relatively liberal, and I am not religious. I'd like to think that I am spiritual but I don't even know if I would describe myself this way.

This is what my google homepage horoscope said for Scorpios today: "You have a strange relationship with your spirituality that is difficult to explain to anyone else. Fortunately, you are not required to put words to that which cannot be communicated, even if others inquire. For now, just revel in your inner experience, for that's where you can draw the most strength."

I guess my spirituality does lye in my experiences. I have traveled quite a lot and have gone down different roads in finding myself. And the further along I go, I realize that there really is never going to be a moment where you reach a finish line or you just feel utterly and completely happy. That hollywood scene of happiness is just not going to arrive ever but I must say I have been experiencing moment of happiness that I have never felt before. I am enjoying my new job, my work is fulfilling, I am learning a tremendous amount from reading, colleagues, and students, I have a wonderful family, some great friends near and far and even better I am utterly and completely in love! I don't think that I could ask for anything more!

Ramadan Kareem/Eid Mubarak

Since the purpose of this blog is to give you a feeling for what life is like in Dubai and the various places that I visit throughout the Middle East, I thought that it would not be right to go any further without describing the holy month of Ramadan.

A week after I arrived in Dubai, the month of Ramadan arrived. I was sort of deeply dreading this month for I knew things sort of slowed down and the loud music was turned off after I had been moving at a high speed pulsating dance music party mix type pace all summer.

The dates of the month of Ramadan change every year. The month begins about 10 days earlier each year due to the fact that our calendar is based on a solar calendar while the Muslim calendar is lunar. I have had my few stints with Ramadan throughout my time at the Univ. of Wa. I had several Muslim friends who were fasting and one day, I tried fasting but did not make it so far as Solstice cafe without giving in to my morning latte. I realized at that time that fasting and Ramadan is a spiritual matter with meaning behind it that I did not quite yet understand.

During the thirty days of Ramadan, Muslims fast from sunrise (dawn) to sunset (dusk). This does not only mean food but also water, beverages, smoking, displays of affection towards the opposite sex and cursing. The month of fasting is important to Muslims for a few reasons: to bring them closer to G_d and their belief, and to humble them and make them remember those who are starving and in need. It was during the month of Ramadan that the Qu'ran or the messages were revealed to their Prophet which I truly find remarkable.

I learned a lot throughout the month of Ramadan and wish that I spent a month out of every year partaking in these types of spiritual, and cultural activities which bring families and friends together, make people behave in a humble and nice way and sort of re-charge the battery if you will. After all of the books I read, and people that have taught me about Ramadan, I learned the most from my students and co-workers. They enjoy Ramadan. It is not a burden to them. And they explained to me that Ramadan is not about trying to fast but it is a simple act that only requires you to relax and give up your daily habits of consumption. Muslims usually read from the Qu'ran every evening or go to the mosques. Families get together and eat and gather together every evening for a festivity which is called Iftar.

At the end of Ramadan, the Eid holiday is announced which is equivalent in importance to the West's Christmas. Adults give children money in small increments (like 10 5dirham bills for example), people buy each other new clothes, people wear new clothes and of course, people get together and eat. Like I mentioned the re-charging your battery, Eid marks the beginning of a new year for Muslims hence the new clothes. Raheela, my colleague and now good friend, even fed me the traditional sweet noodles that Pakistanis eat on Eid.

In the U.A.E., drinking, smoking, eating, chewing gum, and playing loud music is all prohibited during the month of Ramadan. At first I thought it would be such a burden and I will admit that I came home from shopping outings or from school quite dehydrated. However, when Eid arrived, I realized that I had learned from my colleagues, and students how meaningful and beautiful this time of year really is and in the end enjoyed partaking in the rituals and experiencing this holiday in a Muslim country. Eid Mubarak to all of my beloved friends and family! Have a wonderful year!

A Historic Day for a History Teacher

On Wednesday, the 9th of September 2009 (09/09/09) at 9:09:09 the VP of the UAE and the Ruler of Dubai, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid and his fellow dignitaries, rode the first metro in Dubai, this marked the opening of the Dubai Metro. The Dubai metro, according to several expats I have met, has been "a big deal". Not only has the construction disrupted most car traveling fellows (which is everyone in Dubai) when all is said and done, the city will spend around 7.6 billion US dollars on this system. The metro is a raised rail car or subway that runs through the city to various stations. I could not figure what all the fuss was about. A new metro, so what? Houston has a metro that barely anyone rides, and Seattle also just opened one so we'll see.

Then, while asking my colleague Patricia, it hit me, it is the very first subway/metro EVER in the Middle East. That's a big deal!

At first, I'd read someplace that the metro would be a wonderful catalyst to bring multiple cultures and various socio-economic groups together. Then, I learned a day before the metro opened that there will eventually be different types of metro tickets for purchase similar to trains in Europe and planes in the US. So the poorer folk will purchase Class C or Class 3 tickets for example while the richer folks Class A or Class 1 if you will and the rich and the poor folk will ride in seperate cars never having to interact. I will be interested to discover the outcome of this idea or decision.

My girls (students) were really excited and I can definitely see why! In a city where expats come into and out of their lives, my students or the locals will most likely live here throughout their lifetimes. Considering there is no tax here, the money for the subway did not come from the workers, teachers, corporate business or out of my pocket. All of the investments being made in Dubai are being done by the Sheikh and the royal family. Many Emiraties are proud when their city makes a long term investment on its infrastructure because they know it will only put there city on the map and make it more desirable of a location to either spend your vacation here or move to.

Needless to say, I witnessed the first metro in the Middle East. Last night, as I was out on Sheikh Zayed Road, I saw the metro go by. I sort of smiled knowing that I did not have to endure as much of the inconvenience it has caused for others while still smiling because I know, at the end of the day, it will make some people's lives much easier.